Beauty

Silab launches Metallomia, a detoxifying active for menopausal skin

Solveig AndresenNovember 12, 20265 min read1 views

At a glance

  • The French active-ingredient maker says the ingredient targets deficient ferritinophagy, which it links to iron-related premature skin ageing.
  • Silab has introduced Metallomia, a patented detoxifying active ingredient designed for menopausal skin, where the company reports a deficiency in ferritinophagy and a resulting lack of bioavailable iron. Silab reports reduced pigment spots, a reinforced barrier and limited UV-induced oxidative stress in volunteer testing, with the ingredient built on a traced French marshmallow root supply chain.
A conceptual cross-section of skin with mineral particles moving through a gel-like matrix, beside a marshmallow root and mucilage droplets under a grazing UV light beam.

French active-ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying cosmetic active developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the mechanism that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs.

Silab reports that a novel modelling study on menopausal skin highlighted a shortfall in this key process. The deficiency observed during menopause induces a lack of bioavailable iron, which the company links to premature ageing of the skin, a phenomenon it describes as metallo-ageing. UV radiation is said to amplify the effect: exposure favours the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and, in turn, significant oxidative stress.

Mechanism and reported results

Metallomia is designed to relaunch ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, facilitating the provision of iron and restarting the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, the active is also intended to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.

According to Silab, this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-ageing. In Caucasian volunteers, skin was described as revitalised from 14 days, with a reinforced barrier and a unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were reported to be significantly reduced after 28 days. When applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the ingredient prevented lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited within hours of exposure. These outcomes are company-reported and have not been independently verified.

The dual action, restoring iron delivery while curbing uncontrolled iron release, sits at the centre of Silab's positioning. The ingredient was assessed both on menopausal skin condition and in a pre-UV application protocol, which the company presents as evidence of protection against metal-related oxidative stress.

Marshmallow root sourcing

For Metallomia, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has established a traced supply chain with French partners, validated against the criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To take advantage of the root's mucilage content, a specific enzyme engineering process was developed to extract polyuronides.

Formulation and compliance

Metallomia is a patented active recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. The ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. It also complies with international cosmetics regulations covering Europe, the USA, China, Japan and other markets.

Reported by Solveig Andresen, Cosmetic Safety and Packaging Editor.